From Lebanon to El Salvador, by Laurel

Besides learning more about where our students come from, a trip to El Salvador appealed because it was a chance for me to explore a completely new corner of the world--first time in El Salvador, first time anywhere in Central America.  After several years of back and forth with Lebanon, I was ready to shake up my travel pattern!

Now three days in, I'm surprised that things feel familiar.  In many ways, these two countries have a lot in common.  Lebanon might not be so far away after all. 

For starters, both are small countries with about the same number of people.  Geographically, there's a lot of diversity.  From beach to mountains, El Salvador and Lebanon have lots to offer in a tight space.

During our crash course in Salvadoran history with Miguel Ventura on our first day, other commonalities surfaced.  Time in these countries has been marked in massacres, assassinations and the comings and goings of refugees.  Recent civil war and on going traumatic fall out - check and check.   Both are learning that it's hard to move forward without coming to terms with the past. 

Digging a little deeper now in conversations with educators and activists, there are recurring themes: a security crisis, armed groups beyond government control, mass emigration, insufficient infrastructure, an intense religious dynamic, women's rights.  All this makes for a complex and overwhelming macro-problem, or as the Lebanese call it, "the situation."

The news coming out of both countries is grim, and makes folks back home wonder what I'm doing in these places.  The truth is there's a lot more behind the travel warnings and negative news reports.  Life in El Salvador and Lebanon goes on, so much so that it's surprisingly easy to feel at home.  People go to work and kids go to school.  There are tidy neighborhoods  and bustling city centers.  Grocery stores, movie theaters, gyms and car washes are filled with people going about their lives much as they do back home.  

That life carries on despite the situation speaks to the people's resilience and ability to adapt.  Time and again in Lebanon, at moments when it seemed the house of cards was about to fall, the Lebanese amazed me by quickly adjusting to the next level of dysfunction and carrying right on.  My sense after these past few days is that Salvadorans are equally flexible.  

This morning we wrapped up our three days in San Salvador and we're now headed to the mountains.  The scenery en route to Morazan reminds me of the Chouf.  If the similarities continue, the mountains will be my favorite spot.  I'm also hoping for more pupusas in the near future.  Pupusas are the new manoushi.  :)

L.A.